St. Joseph Island | the north junction

Top 10 Places to See the Fall Colours in Algoma Country

Posted on September 12, 2015 by Meaghan Kent

Leaves are beginning to change colours in Northern Ontario.

While September might be a student’s nightmare due to the dreaded back to school blues, for me, it stands as one of my absolute favourite months. September brings warm days and cool nights, perfect for camping and sleeping out under the stars. The waters in the Great Lakes are still warm enough to enjoy a dip, and summer tourists have returned back to their homes, leaving trails and popular destination spots quieter. Most impressively, the Maple trees transition from their evergreen colours to brilliant shades of orange, red, yellow, and even purple by mid-September. Northern Ontario becomes a sea of bright shades and hues, a colour chaser’s paradise.

Across Ontario, there are plenty of places to see the changing of the leaves. However, Northern Ontario promises spectacular views against the backdrop of great bodies of water, including Lake Superior. Below is a list of some of the top 10 places (in no particular order) that colour chasers can view the changing of the Maple trees in the Algoma region while also enjoying breathtaking views of Northern Ontario water. This list is not exhaustive, but instead, a list of my personal favourite hotspots.

Before heading out on the trails, be sure to check out Ontario Park’s weekly Fall Colour Report, which highlights optimal viewing for colour chasers across the Province of Ontario.

The Pancake Bay Lookout Trail.

Located only 45 minutes north of Sault Ste. Marie, the Pancake Bay Lookout Trail is an easy six-kilometre trail which boasts a scenic lookout over mighty Lake Superior, the white sands of Pancake Bay, and the graveyard of the Great Lakes, where the historic Edmund Fitzgerald met her demise on 10 November 1975. After climbing metal and wooden stairs to reach the worn platforms which dot the top of a cliffed mountain, the lookout is always worth the hike – no matter the season and the weather. Once at the lookout, viewers can see for miles. To the left stretches the Boreal Forest and continues onto the right. In front, down below, lies the TransCanada Highway, and a body of freshwater encompasses the horizon. In the fall months, the trees adorn their fall colours, appearing as a sea of bright hues jarring out of the Canadian Shield, stopping abruptly for the pure white sand which meets the cool, blue waters. The Lookout Trail truly is the perfect fall hike.

Robertson Cliffs Trail

Located only 15 minutes outside of Sault Ste. Marie exists the Robertson Cliffs and King Mountain. Jutting out of the lowlands in Goulais (pronounced “Goo-lee”) stands these picturesque mountains, which offer panoramic views of the boreal forest, the Trans Canadian Highway, and mighty Lake Superior. Many label the Robertson Cliffs trail as difficult. However, the trail is rather simple, except for the first kilometre, in which hikers climb approximately 180 metres (or 600 feet) in elevation to reach the top of the mountain, where they are greeted with five impressive lookouts, perfect for viewing the fall colours. The Robertson Cliffs Trail also offers up a small waterfall viewing opportunity. This is a great hike for those looking to escape the city for a few hours without wanting to venture far.

Nokomis Trail

Located across from Old Woman Bay at the northern boundary of Lake Superior Provincial Park (approximately 20 minutes south of Wawa, Ontario), the Nokomis Trail is a moderately difficult five-kilometre trail system that provides five stunning lookouts, sky high above Old Woman Bay, one of the most popular stops within Lake Superior Provincial Park. Viewers can enjoy breathtaking views of the Old Woman River, Old Woman Bay, and the rolling glacial mountains, which appear as a sea of bright colour in the fall months. On a windy day, hikers can experience first hand the legacy of mighty Superior, as waves crash 10 feet high at Old Woman Bay. (Stay tuned for a detailed trail report on the Nokomis Trail!)

Highway 129 to Chapleau

As much as I love hiking, I also love taking fall drives. Consider taking a drive along Highway 129 from Thessalon, Ontario to Chapleau, Ontario. Over two hours in length one way, the drive offers views of uninterrupted Northern Ontario. Drivers get close – sometimes too close – to the edge of the Mississaugi River, as the highway hugs the river, as well as other lakes and tributaries. As you drive along, enjoy the winding and rolling of the highway, as well as the never-ending rolling of the mountains. Onlookers can also enjoy glimpses of the remains of a devastating forest fire, Pig Pen Chutes, and the Chapleau Game Preserve, the largest game preserve in Ontario. With few towns and communities on this solitary highway, your chance of seeing wildlife as well as the fall colours is extremely high. Be sure to get gas before leaving Thessalon, Ontario, however; there are very few opportunities to gas up along the way!

Fall colours at Hiawatha Highlands.

Hiawatha Highlands

Located within the City of Sault Ste. Marie, off of Fifth Line, Hiawatha Highlands is one of my favourite year-round stomping grounds. With amazing trails for biking, hiking, and running in the spring, summer, and fall, and strenuous cross-country ski tracks and snowshoe paths in the winter, Hiawatha is every Saulite’s favourite recreational place within the city limits. Trails range from one-kilometre in length to over 15-kilometres, and can be anything from easy to moderately difficult. The Crystal Falls, a gorge, and various lookout vantage points also provide trail users with a great views of the city and vast wilderness. To me, Hiawatha is perhaps one of the best places to view the fall colours, since the majority of the trails are lined with thousands of Maple trees. Trail users can spend anywhere from an hour to a full day exploring the Hiawatha Highlands.

St. Joseph Island
Fall colours at the St. Joseph Island bridge.

No matter the season, you can’t go wrong visiting St. Joseph Island. The majority of St. Joseph’s Island’s tree population consists of Maple trees, so a visit in the fall is sure to impress. Take a drive around the entire island on Highway 548, take in the shipping channel at Sailors’ Encampment, visit a quaint store in Richards Landing, or hike the Mountainview Centennial Grounds’ trails in Jocelyn Township. You can stay for an hour, a day, or overnight. And there’s no better home-cooked meal than on St. Joseph Island.

The Chippewa Falls in the fall season, as season from Highway 17, travelling to Wawa, Ontario.

Highway 17 North to Wawa

Did you know that the Lake Superior Circle Tour is considered one of the top 10 drives in Canada? The trip around Lake Superior is absolutely spectacular. However, not everyone has the time to make a 16-hour or more drive around Lake Superior. If you do, however, I highly recommend it. For those of us who can’t spare that much time, consider the drive from Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario to Wawa, Ontario. Approximately 220 kilometres (137 miles), this two-hour drive will not disappoint and will deliver spectacular views of the Boreal Forest, the Canadian Shield, and the rugged coastline of Lake Superior. Two waterfalls – the Chippewa Falls and Pinguisibi (Sand River) Falls will also highlight the trip. And for food lovers, there are plenty of options for a good home-cooked meal along the trip. And did I mention there are some good arts and crafts stores as well? The drive to Wawa is also a great alternative to the Agawa Canyon Tour Train, for those on a tighter budget. Onlookers will enjoy similar views that they would see on the Tour Train, except for the view of the Agawa Canyon itself; however, they will get to enjoy Lake Superior. If you do take this drive, be sure to have a full tank of gas – there are no gas opportunities between Batchewana Bay and Wawa, Ontario.

Agawa Canyon Tour Train

The Agawa Canyon Tour Train is the most popular tourist stop within Sault Ste. Marie. Every year, thousands from around the globe visit the Sault to climb aboard the Algoma Central Railway (ACR) and head to the Agawa Canyon. Visitors can enjoy a full day onboard the train in refurbished cabins, taking in the sites along the rails, including rivers and streams, windfarms, bridges and trusses, and vast mountainous landscapes. Once at the canyon, train travellers have just under two hours to explore the Agawa Canyon, enjoy lunch, hike over 300 steps to the lookout, or visit two impressive waterfalls. The Agawa Canyon Tour Train is truly impressive and promises views nature enthusiasts can see no other way. The Agawa Canyon is visible only via the Agawa Canyon Tour Train. For extreme backcountry hikers, an almost non-existent trail can also be hiked to the Canyon. Warning: not many people have successfully hiked this extremely difficult trek. For more information, please visit the Agawa Canyon Tour Train website.

Awausee Trail

Unlike the Nokomis Trail in Lake Superior Provincial Park, the Awausee Trail is difficult and demands a higher level of expertise and physical ability. 10 kilometres long, the trail is located only minutes from the Agawa River and Agawa Bay Visitor Centre at the south entrance of Lake Superior Provincial Park. For the first two kilometres of the trail, hikers climb to an elevation greater than 300 metres above Lake Superior. The hike up the mountain is agonizing, but the views are unlike anything you’ve ever seen – I promise. Few trails in the Algoma region reach the same elevation as the Awausee Trail. Therefore, before heading out for this hike, check the weather carefully: schedule your hike on a clear, sunny day. I hiked this trail in a thunderstorm and couldn’t see through the clouds at three of the five lookout posts.

Pinguisibi River

Next to the wonder that is Old Woman Bay, Pinguisibi River within Lake Superior Provincial Park sparks within me an incredible sense of awe and inspiration. It is undoubtedly, my most cherished spot within Ontario. More commonly known as the Sand River due to its English translation from Anishinaabemowin (Ojibwa language), the Pinguisibi River provides access to the most reachable waterfall and its three chutes within Lake Superior Provincial Park. So accessible in fact, that it can be seen from the Trans-Canada Highway, making it one of the most popular stops within the park, but also the most popular hiking trail. Although it is considered a moderately difficult trail by the park’s standards, this six-kilometre linear hike is an easy trek, perfect for families, adventure enthusiasts, and those both young and old. Well maintained by the interior provincial park staff, equipped with a well-trodden trail, bridges, and wooden steps, the Pinguisibi River is a must-see stop for those travelling along Highway 17. Plus, if you’re an angler, this river never disappoints.

What’s your favourite place to see the fall colours?

Want to know more about any of these locations or to see pictures from my past travels to these places? Contact me directly at thenorthjunction@hotmail.com or comment on this post.

‘St. Joseph Island Gave Me Peace’: The Four Seasons Resting Place

Posted on September 8, 2015 by Meaghan Kent

Kim Kent

Writer’s Note: One year ago today, the Kent family scattered the ashes of my dear Mother-in-Law off of the stern of Second Home on the St. Mary’s River, in front of her home on St. Joseph Island. This latest entry was written in loving memory of my dearest Mother-in-Law, Mrs. Kimberley Anne Kent, who unfortunately lost her brave battle against cancer in mid-March of 2014. After sitting down to talk to her about her life over a warm cup of hot chocolate in her home on Riverside Drive on St. Joseph Island, she told me her secret to happiness, and how she found everlasting peace. Despite her illness, her stress, and her time coming to an abrupt end, Kim wanted to share with others her secret and her wisdom on living life to the fullest, on finding happiness in the simplest of things, and finding peace in life no matter the prognosis. With her soul full of life and light, passion and compassion, enthusiasm and happiness, may she rest in her paradise forever more. This story was first published on The Northern Portal, and was one of the top five posts of 2014.

* * *

How many people travel great distances to find extreme relaxation? How many look for a place to lose themselves in thoughts of serenity and tranquility? For those lucky enough to call St. Joseph Island home, they must not look anywhere except their own back and front yards, and bask in nature’s glory, a true Garden of Eden anytime of the year.

Recently, someone near and dear to my heart was diagnosed with terminal brain cancer. When she was given the news, she told me she wanted to spend her time on St. Joseph Island, a place she had called home for more than 30 years. For her, St. Joseph Island had been a great place to raise a family, own a successful store (Kentvale Home Hardware), and bring her peace. And she continued to find peace on the Island in her final days.

I had never thought of the Island in this light until she said those words to me. For me, Lake Superior has been that place. That place that has boasted an unmasked calm no matter the season and no matter the weather. However, her simple words have made me think about the Island, nestled in the warm waters of Lake Huron, in a new light.

Over the past four years, I have spent countless days on the Island, visiting every crevice, beach, and tiny, quaint store which lines the old streets of Richards Landing and Hilton Beach. I have set sail from the marinas, and cast anchor over the bow of great ships and sailboats. I have dipped my feet in the calm, deep waters, and even jumped from great heights at Whiskey Rock. I have even eaten a record amount of pancakes drowned in the finest of Maple syrup. I have come to call the Island my second home.

But in all these great memories, I only have ever considered the Island a quick getaway from the daily bustle of the city. Never did I imagine it an everlasting home, where cottage life meets permanence, pure bliss and joy. I take for granted those past three years, and now I find myself green with envy and after rethinking that Islanders perhaps may have just found the secret to sustaining happiness and peace.

* * *

With the closing of September comes the picturesque display of colour on the maple trees. Bright reds, yellows, oranges, and even some purple burst through the once-greened forest. A four-wheeled expedition on any wilderness trail or road reveals the fall exhibition. But a slow walk through a downtrodden trail appeals to the senses, heightening the experience. The crackling of downed leaves, the smell of early-morning dew and last night’s light rain, create the atmosphere of paradise amidst a wilderness of conifers. The slight movement of the wet ground and the anticipation of seeing nature’s creatures — a bear foraging for berries or a runaway fawn — elate the senses. Any trail will do just fine to escape the to-do list for just an hour or two. Just slip away for a moment’s break, and melt into the fall surroundings and landscape. One foot in front of the other, the leaves continue to crackle and shuffle. And with each crackle, and each leaf that continues to fall onto the nearly-covered ground, that to-do list melts away and tranquillity flourishes.

The bridge to St. Joseph Island in the fall.

In the winter, blue cables line the forests, promising a delectable treat for the coming spring when the winter begins to warm. But until that time, the always tranquil Island comes to a rip-roaring start with the first snowfall and first press of the throttle of the snow machine. Even with the loud revving of the choked engine, it’s easy to lose oneself. Enclosed in the warmth of a snow machine helmet, the never-ending scenery mimicking that of an enchanted Narnia plays out in front of the rider. And dancing along the treeline, white-tailed fawns and fluffy short hares dare to play with the machines. In those moments, gliding along the snow-packed and freshly groomed trails in the white forest and chilly sub-zero temperature, is tranquillity and simplicity.

The view of St. Mary’s River from Riverside Drive.

In the springtime, maple syrup runs rampant, overflowing the boilers, and filing the stomachs and souls of those who come from far away to taste the sweet and woody flavoured indulgence. With the thawing of the ice comes the opening of the shipping channel and the blossoming of the thousands of crocuses, tulips, and beautiful pink and blue wild lupines. The magnificence of the Island’s spirit blooms wild and free along the winding Highway of 548 and along the M and N Lines. But even with the windows down, breathing in the rich air and taking in the awe-inspiring forestry while whisking through the countryside, the true essence of the Island in the spring months is found on the shoreline of Riverside Drive, a real hidden gem. Relaxing porch-side with an iced-cold beverage, while gliding in an ever-slightly squeaking rocking chair and listening to the long drawn-out sighs of the freighters carrying cargo to the busy cities, the cries of the ships can lull one to sleep. One, two, four, five, seven ships pass by in five hours, with their carefree workers waving frivolously to the natives bathing in the warm sun’s rays beneath the crystal blue sky. The United States seems close enough to leap to, but who would dare leave the comfort of this scene and that rocking chair that never ceases. With another beverage comes the passing of another hour and thousands more tiny waves crashing gently on the pebbled shoreline. Paradise is not tropical, but rather the simplest of moments passed without a worry and without concern.

The view of Lake Huron from Second Home.

From June till late September, the Island shows her true vivacity. Vacationers travel from far away — the United States, Germany, and many other foreign places — just to experience a taste of what the Island has to offer. With the marinas full of power boats and tall-mast ships, and the aroma of pan-seared fresh caught fish and charbroiled cobbed corn bathed in melted butter, the Island delights all its lodgers. But peace comes not from any of these luxuries, but instead from the tranquillity found on the water. Whether on the vessels of Second Wind, Winding Down, Murphy’s Law,or Teapot — just to name a few — an anchor line over starboard is the true treasure. The sound of absolute quietness, except the song of an overhead gull, and the lapping of water against the hull of the floating vessel, is peace, the absolute best that the Island has to bid its inhabitants and guests. With toes hanging off of the stern’s platform, dangling into the surprisingly warm and gently calm water, a slight breeze ruffles one’s hair and sends a chill of peaceful exhilaration throughout the body. Tick tock. Time goes on as each minute passes, but nothing in this serene moment matters. Nothing but the gentle rock of the boat, the wind, and the water. Just peace. No spa, no resort, no chalet can afford the price of relaxation that Lake Huron boasts.

* * *

It is these precious secrets recently shared with me that have made me come to understand the true nature of the Island. No longer a vacation destination, or a weekend getaway, the tiny Island in the heart of Lake Huron is a four seasons resting place. A place of tranquillity, serenity, and comfort. A place where those who listen to the wisdom bestowed on me, will too find the greatest gift in life — peace.

Releasing paper lanterns from Second Home in honour of my late Mother-in-Law.

The Ghosts of St. Joseph Island’s Past

Posted on August 23, 2015 by Meaghan Kent

In 1814, Fort St. Joseph was burned to the ground by American soldiers from Detroit, Michigan. Today, the remnants of large stone and wooden buildings and hollowed fortresses stand as the only reminder of the significance of the trading post which lay strategically positioned on the edge of Upper Canada. Footpaths, which were once heavily trodden by First Nations peoples, Voyageurs, clerks, and soldiers, who settled the post, are now dormant, telling a story of desertion and loneliness, a tale the original inhabitants knew all too well in the early 1800s. Now owned by Canadian Heritage Parks Canada, and dubbed a National Historic Site, Fort St. Joseph is frequented by visitors in the summer months, but also by the ghosts of the original settlers.

A birch bark canoe made by the Voyageurs filled with pelts and furs from the Fur Trade.

For several years, Parks Canada has been putting on an elaborate evening Ghost Walk, occurring on the third weekend of August. With three performances an evening, each running just over an hour in length, visitors are treated to a dark trek through the old trading post, where they are greeted by a Wayfaring Spirit who serves as their guide and converses with ghosts from the past. Guests gather in the robust Visitor Centre, which proudly displays artefacts of the past, before being escorted by Scottish bagpipes and the Town Crier through a tunnel of trees to the old fortification. Aided by the light of hundreds of kerosene lanterns, small cozy fires, the crescent moon, and thousands of stars, the dark fur trading post comes to life. While meandering through the hilled promontory, which overlooks St. Mary’s River, guests listen to the stories, tales, and even rumours of the garrisons, cooks, Voyageurs, and Ojibwe people before enjoying a traditional snack of hot cocoa (without the sugar since it was a rare commodity in Upper Canada) and bannock filled with currants.

The ghosts, who communicate only with the Wayfaring Spirit, and are ‘blind’ to their audience, reveal their hardships endured in settling the most westerly frontier outpost in British North America (BNA). Deemed “the Military Siberia of Upper Canada” by an early soldier, Fort St. Joseph presented little excitement and enjoyment for settlers: brutishly cold and long winters, little sustenance, dangerously strong winds, the presence of Poison Oak, and the constant threat of invasion from the Americans and First Nations population. The only way to access the fort was via canoe, since no roads were created to the enclosure until after World War II. As guests make their way around portions of the 372 acres of history, they are constantly reminded of the presence of death, as banshees howl in the distance. Their blood curdling yelps never go unnoticed, hinting at the loss of life, including those who froze to death or died from unruly and unsanitary conditions at the outpost. It is no surprise that a cemetery lay west of the compound.

Dressed in period traditional garb, the ghosts tell tales of early settlement through to the declaration of war in 1812. Construction began on Fort St. Joseph in the summer of 1797 after the British were forced to concede Fort Michilimackinac back to the Americans in 1796, years after the ending of the American Revolution and the signing of the Treaty of Paris. The enclosure was built quickly following the orders of Lord Dorchester, Military Governor of Canada, who feared the Americans would also occupy the territory. Needing a post to control the Great Lakes, major trade routes, and the fur trade, but also wanting to be in close proximity to Fort Michilimackinac, Fort St. Joseph was constructed, which included an old bake house (which burned down in 1802), kitchen, block house, stores building, guardhouse, lime kiln, among other structures. A 13-foot tall wall or palisade surrounded the fort, which was destroyed in a strong wind storm in 1811.

When the Americans declared war on the British on 18 June 1812, Captain Charles Roberts, who controlled the garrison on Fort St. Joseph, received confusing messaging from Major-General Sir Isaac Brock, who ordered a defensive strategy but also an offensive attack on Fort Michilimackinac. Knowing Fort St. Joseph could not hold her own in war defensively, Captain Roberts decided to attack offensively. The offensive attack on 17 July 1812, which included 40 soldiers, approximately 150 British, and 300 First Nations peoples, was a surprise to the Americans, allowing the cohort to successfully capture Fort Michilimackinac without a single shot being fired. Being only one day’s canoe away from Fort St. Joseph, settlers moved their supplies back to Fort Michilimackinac, abandoning Fort St. Joseph, leaving her available for the taking and an attack.

In 1814, an American group burned all of Fort St. Joseph, except for one civilian structure, which is assumed to have belonged to the South West Company, an American establishment. When the War of 1812 ended, all land was returned back to its original conqueror; however, the British decided not to rebuild Fort St. Joseph. Rather, settlers built a new enclosure on neighbouring island Drummond Island and remaining supplies and useable provisions from the original fort were dragged across the frozen St. Mary’s River to Drummond Island.

The dark and solemn tour of the compound is ended on a high note, one of celebration and laugher. The Wayfaring Spirit delivers her guests to the Great Orator Assinginack, who guides his audience throughout the remainder of the expedition. Guests are treated to traditional singing and drumming by the Healing Lodge Singers, who sing in Anishinaabemowin (Objibwe language) around a roaring fire before being presented with an offering of bannock and hot cocoa. Relations with First Nations peoples in Fort. St. Joseph were most often friendly. They lived just outside of the palisade walls and often bartered and traded goods. The British enjoyed maple sugar and syrup while the First Nations peoples enjoyed the comforts of blankets and tools.

St. Joseph Island Bridge

Fort St. Joseph is located on the southern tip of St. Joseph Island, approximately 50 kilometres from the St. Joseph Island bridge, and almost 75 kilometres east of Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario. In the daylight and during regular summer hours of operation, visitors can enjoy exploring the ruins as well as various trails around Fort St. Joseph. The fort is also home to many different animal and bird species, perfect for a nature enthusiast. For more information, please visit Parks Canada’s Fort St. Joseph’s website.